Boiled Wool Cambria Duster Coat
Hello, it’s Bronte here!
An exciting part of working with Dragonfly Fabrics is being able to experiment with their amazing patterns and fabrics!
I recently spent some time working on this Cumbria Duster coat, made in dark grey Boiled wool and Burgundy coloured cable knit jersey. Slightly unusually combining the two across all parts of the coat. Although I love the ease of using patterns I also wanted more creativity, this is where fabric choice comes in. If you aren’t confident with altering patterns then get creative with your fabrics!
The 100% boiled wool is a fantastic fabric to work with, cutting and sewing easily as well as providing so much comfort and warmth. To make life even easier there is no fraying in either of the fabrics so seam finishings isn’t needed- but possibly wanted as a design aspect. If you want to try your hand at this lovely coat all you need are basic sewing supplies (machine, scissors and thread) and your choice of fabric- thats it!
The Friday Company pattern provided was a dream to follow, with steps taking you through every stage as well as tips and hints on possible finishings and ideas. I personally made slight changes to the jacket by elongating the sleeves. I also changed the two side panels into 4 separate pieces to add more subtle detail to the coat.
One of my favourite parts of this make was the bias binding on the pockets. I think that such a detail adds a lovely charm to the jacket, giving it more character and individuality. Another added detail that makes a garment look finished is topstitching. I have topstitched the seams on the tie for the coat. On heavier fabrics such as the wool and cable knit this can make the edges look almost piped to finish.
When it comes to finishing garments there are endless amounts of options.
My personal favourite is a herringbone stitch for finishing seams. This really helps to flatten the seam and is used a lot in tailoring, as well as spreading the weight of the fabric. This stitch is especially useful for hemming any garment as you are less likely to get a line of the hem at the bottom. With this stitch it is especially useful to trim down and stagger your seam allowances before sewing. This lessens the bulk in the seams and gives a flatter more finished look.
Another great way of finishing seams (apart from an overlocker) is to use bias binding. However this is a longer process but does give a very appealing and attractive finishing to each seam once pressed flat.
Where possible seams can be flat-felled this is a technique that is used a lot in corsetry to help the seams lie as flat and as close to the body as possibly. Again seams will need to be trimmed and staggered but it can give a very simple and appealing finish.
The type of finishing can also depend on the fabric, this boiled wool is lovely and thick, allowing me to stitch through half of it to herringbone but without any seams being shown on the right side of the fabric.
Simple sewing tips for this make:
- Always wash your fabric before starting to cut out as it may shrink
- Always give your wool a gentle steam on both sides, lifting the iron each time to prevent warping the fabric
- Don’t pull the fabric when sewing or the stretch will be out of place
Have fun and enjoy your craft!
You can find the fabrics and pattern I used for my project here: